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Post by ozarkmountainman on Apr 13, 2012 22:12:45 GMT -5
I'm sure we've talked about this in the past, but it's been on my mind lately so here I go again. Sorry I can't post pics...
Working the dog down on bodygrips is the key to making a faster-firing and more consistant trap. Here's how I do it-
With a flat bastard file I "square-off" the bottom of the dog. We don't want rounded corners in the notches. With a good file it generally doesn't take too long to get this done. After a few strokes, coloring this area with a Sharpie before you file again will show you high and low spots. Try to keep the file flat and square, and take slow, careful strokes.
Next, take a round chainsaw file, or a dremel tool that fits the notch closely, and deepen the notches in the dog. Generally we're talking about adding another 25-30% of depth to the notch. This makes the trap jaw jump out of the dog faster and more cleanly than before.
Try this- CAREFULLY fire a bodygrip trap (with a LONG stick). Watch how far the trigger moves before the trap fires. It'll surprise you. Then do the same thing after you do the above modification, and see the difference . It'll blow you away at what 2 minutes or so of filing will accomplish!
Hope this is of some help to ya'll.
Dale
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Post by mofotrapper on Apr 13, 2012 22:38:17 GMT -5
Good tip Dale.... I will have to try that...
A flat bastard file??.... its a wonder that didn't get bleeped...
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Apr 13, 2012 23:04:39 GMT -5
Har! How about "millbastard" file?
Dale
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Post by countrykiller on Apr 13, 2012 23:44:36 GMT -5
your going to be put in time out and have your recess takin away from you...........
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Apr 14, 2012 0:22:35 GMT -5
Not me. Not this time.
Dale
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Post by Guest on Jun 15, 2012 13:02:58 GMT -5
I tried this mod on a duke 330,did it just as you said how to and it made absolutely no difference,so is this mod only good for certain style of dog/trigger.How much space is suppose to be beetween the dog notch and the trapjaw,please explain how this is suppose to help the jaw jump out of the dog faster?
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Post by bigjohn on Jun 15, 2012 16:58:36 GMT -5
What you are trying to accomplish,is getting the dog to set down on the trigger.The bottom side of the dog should contact the trigger.I also file a bit off the side of the dog notch that is holding the trap open.This takes VERY LITTLE METAL REMOVAL and should be checked every couple of strokes will the file.A little too much and you'll have a hair trigger that even river current will cause the trap to fire.
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Jun 15, 2012 19:48:27 GMT -5
Whay John said.
Dale
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Post by Guest on Jun 15, 2012 21:48:24 GMT -5
Im wondering what kinda conibears you guys got,they must be really,REALLY old.Every conibear i got the dog is allready setting on the trigger and if you file the dog notch it only creates a gap beetween the notch and the jaw.Dale said in the original post "adding 25-30% to the depth of the notch. Bigjohn says THIS TAKES VERY LITTLE METAL REMOVAL.Thats kinda conflicting dont you think????? So if the dog is already settin on the trigger then there is no adjustment nessecary?? Shoot even my oldest bears the dog is settin on the trigger,and yes i use the hell out of them. Its knda aggravating cuz i belived i was fixin to make my stuff better in actuality i just wasted some time.
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Post by bigjohn on Jun 16, 2012 6:45:00 GMT -5
When I stated very little,I was referring to the verticle face of the notch.When you set a conibear,the verticle face of the dog is bearing on the jaw,keeping the jaws in place.Try tying the jaws open with a piece of wire (or use one of the safety devices)so when the trap fires it cannot close all the way.Now push on the trigger,making the trap fire.You'll notice that on most conibears,the trigger will move as much as 4 or 5 inches before the jaws release.You'll notice that the notch face is what's holding on until it fires.By removing a tiny bit of this face at a very slight angle,that the trigger has less foward movement to release.I can't stress enough though, that it takes very little metal removal to accomplish that.You should be able to get it down to 1 to 1 1/2 inches of travel to fire compared to the typical 4 or 5.
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Post by bobcat64 on Jun 16, 2012 17:56:08 GMT -5
Ya this works great on coni's. i did all off my 330's and 220 last year defiantly makes the trap fire quicker. GREAT TIP DALE
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Post by Guest on Jun 17, 2012 0:05:10 GMT -5
I mean no disrespect when i say this"get your story straight"dont you think that is important when giving instruction,considering the fact a person can do more harm than good if the"how to"keeps changing sure i want my traps to be better,who doesnt?I certainly dont want my gear to be worse off either but that is a definate possibility when the info is less than accurate,confusing someone isnot helpful.Im a firm believer in keeping things simple.Its my personal opinion that this mod is more of a "novelty"and not really nessecary.I say this because most stock triggers have a bend in them when their pushed on and this is part of the reason it take so much to fire them.The simplest solution is a stiffer,stronger trigger,and upgrade the safeties so there less chance of inteference with the trapjaws.Yes this stuff cost alittle,however it will surley pay for itself by the time trappin season is over.
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Post by krank on Jun 17, 2012 9:15:22 GMT -5
Great tip Dale......I modded all my Duke 330s and now they go pow with an inch of trigger movement. That will be the difference between a hit anda miss.
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Post by bobcat64 on Jun 17, 2012 11:07:27 GMT -5
so right Krank that inch are two of trigger movement makes all the difference in the world, especially on otters as fast as they swim thru a set.
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Post by bigjohn on Jun 17, 2012 11:12:52 GMT -5
I mean no disrespect when i say this"get your story straight"dont you think that is important when giving instruction,considering the fact a person can do more harm than good if the"how to"keeps changing sure i want my traps to be better,who doesnt?I certainly dont want my gear to be worse off either but that is a definate possibility when the info is less than accurate,confusing someone isnot helpful.Im a firm believer in keeping things simple.Its my personal opinion that this mod is more of a "novelty"and not really nessecary.I say this because most stock triggers have a bend in them when their pushed on and this is part of the reason it take so much to fire them.The simplest solution is a stiffer,stronger trigger,and upgrade the safeties so there less chance of inteference with the trapjaws.Yes this stuff cost alittle,however it will surley pay for itself by the time trappin season is over. Tinkering with traps isn't for everyone.If you trap many otters or beaver,your going to see hip caught animals without this mod.If you don't think an otter or beaver can get out of a conibear in such a situation,well you just haven't trapped enough of them.If I was more computer savy,I'd have posted a diagram,but I'm not lol.You can go to trapperman.com and they have a very good drawing and explaination of this mod.If you do take a little too much off,a little extra filing CAN correct it.Worse case senario,you just have to buy another dog at less than $2. |
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Post by Guest on Jun 17, 2012 12:08:59 GMT -5
i never claimed to be a big-time trapper nor do i have an "expert"label next to my name and i understand clearly.My point is the info on this mod is contradictory (or am i the onl person who cares to read this thread in its entirety)im sure it wasnt meant to be like that.i have hip caught otter (even some big brutes)and smaller beaver.I only got 3 doz 330s but i do use them all and i catch an a fair amount of both considering im a part-timer.Im sure this mod works for yall,if you say it does.However it is not nessecary for the new trapper with new or newer gear,i truly believe that you place the trigger smack-dabin the middle of the trap and use a stabilizer to keep the trapjaw off the bottom of the creek,river whatever this will help also.Thier are no "gaurantees" when it comes to catchin critters lots of things can happen no matter what precautions a trapper makes,(now im stateing the obvious)Im not looking for an argument dont get me wrong.Different strokes for different folks.We all have a common interest when its all said and done.
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Post by krank on Jun 17, 2012 17:58:08 GMT -5
My observation.....Take a new coni and set it. That trigger swings back and forth like a screen door in a tornado. Deepen the groove in the dog (And flat square it) and it sets the dog down on the trigger. Any lateral motition results in a lifting of the dog. If you did this and did not experience an extra benifit then may be your factory traps were accidently correct to begin with.
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Jun 19, 2012 2:09:40 GMT -5
It's always worked for me, and I've NEVER found as bodygrip that this mod doesn't improve. Even my Belisles benefit from it.
This is a perfect case in point of why I need internet at home- I could post pics and dispell these kind of issues.
Dale
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Post by ozarkmountainman on Jun 19, 2012 2:13:00 GMT -5
Also, as always, I'm just trying to help. I stongly urge anyone to try these kinds of modifications on ONE TRAP at a time. Check to see if it works for you before you go hackin' & sawin' away on your precious steel.
Different strokes, for sure.
Dale
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Post by mofotrapper on Jun 19, 2012 18:18:22 GMT -5
You know Dale, you getting the internet would help, AND, pic's would help too...
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people have been busy it sounds like.