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Post by treeman on Aug 19, 2011 10:48:58 GMT -5
Last year when i dyed my traps (logwood dye) then waxed them, some of my traps the wax was slighly separated (Clear, not binded) on the traps & would flake off a bit. I used a 5lb. block of trappers wax on top of water that was simmering.I dipped them in for about 10 seconds then slowly pulled them up through the floating hot wax. Does this mean I didn't leave them in long enough, or too long?
Or I didn't rinse the traps after i dyed them, can that cause this? Do you all rinse them after the dye, before waxing?
-T-
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Post by bigbob on Aug 19, 2011 12:13:27 GMT -5
Wax won't stick to a wet trap! There is NO WAY you could have drawn those traps through the wax slow enough to dry the steel.
Dye the traps and hang them till dry. The hot steel and a summer day will do that quickly. THEN dip in a pot of hot wax, NO WATER!
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Post by mocatmancb on Aug 19, 2011 13:12:32 GMT -5
if they come out of the wax looking wet, you got it right. if you have some white clumps of wax on the trap it is not hot enough.
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Post by treeman on Aug 19, 2011 19:45:42 GMT -5
Thanks. Guess i will be needing more wax than I thought i would. Makes sense to me.
-T-
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Post by grumpy on Aug 20, 2011 19:38:15 GMT -5
treeman,
traps should be waxed after they have been dyed,,and dried.
the tricky part is making sure your wax doesn't get close to the flash-point. a lot of fellas use a double-boiler method to guard against that problem.
when waxing traps, heat your wax till it "almost" begins to smoke. slowly lower the trap into the wax and leave it until the trap is the same temp as the wax. then, you can remove the trap and shake it or spin in to remove any excess wax that has pooled on different surfaces. it will look slightly wet and will begin to dull as it cools. hang them up in a handy place out of the way until they cool completely.
then clean the tip of the dog and pan-notch free of the wax and check you pan tension.
the grump.
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Post by trapper660 on Jan 8, 2012 16:32:43 GMT -5
do you have to wax your traps in the set position or will the wax get to all surfaces with them closed
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Post by bigjohn on Jan 8, 2012 17:39:34 GMT -5
The wax will get to the jaws fine,Acually,if it doesnt could be a good thing.I think sometimes wax on the jaw face could cause a pull out.Some people put a small nail inthe jaws to insure they get waxed.
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Post by segsarge on Jan 8, 2012 21:16:36 GMT -5
DO NOT put a trap that is set into a container of hot wax! If it fires it's likely to throw wax on the heat source and you'll have a wax fire.
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Post by basetiger on May 2, 2012 15:50:07 GMT -5
So do you dye and wax new traps ? or just wax ? also you just use wax on water ?
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Post by basetiger on May 2, 2012 15:50:57 GMT -5
So do you dye and wax new traps ? or just wax ? also you just use wax no water ?
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Post by krank on May 2, 2012 16:00:14 GMT -5
So do you dye and wax new traps ? or just wax ? also you just use wax no water ? First thing you do is get that factory oil off by boiling. Some use vinegar with the water..... |
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Post by yote on May 2, 2012 19:15:29 GMT -5
Vinegar I never heard that one
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Post by krank on May 2, 2012 20:58:07 GMT -5
vinegar is a mild acid. It etches the metal. Also like trisodium phospate or muriatic acid but you are asking for trouble if you muff it. Puts a nice brown rust on in 24 hrs to take the stain or paint or whatever you use.
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Post by yote on May 2, 2012 21:53:14 GMT -5
Will it work on speed dip
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